One of the most common questions we get during a jean fitting is: “How do you shorten denim without losing that cool, lived-in look at the bottom?”
The answer is the original hem, and once you know it exists, you’ll never go back to a standard hem on a pair of jeans!
First: What is a Standard Hem?
When tailors shorten a pair of pants with a standard, or normal hem, the process is straightforward: the excess fabric is trimmed away, the raw edge is folded up and pressed, and a line of stitching secures it in place. For most dress trousers, chinos, and woven pants, this works well. The result is a clean, finished edge that looks intentional.
On denim, though, a standard hem can create a problem. The original factory edge of a jean is not just a straight line of stitching .
On selvedge or distressed denim, the hem often has deliberate fading or fraying that took factory finishing to create. A standard hem removes all of that permanently and replaces it with a crisp, flat edge that reads as “altered.” The proportions are corrected, but the character is gone.
The Original Hem: How It Works
A good original hem technique preserves the factory edge entirely. Here’s the process:
The hem is carefully detached from the bottom of the jean, keeping it fully intact.
Next, the leg is cropped to the client’s correct measurement.
The original hem is then reattached with precision, including a matched thread color and stitch width.
When it’s done correctly, the result is a jean that looks like it was made specifically for your proportions.
Our tailor recently hemmed Oprah’s jeans using this original hem style, learn more here!
When to Choose an Original Hem vs. a Standard Hem
Raw or selvedge denim
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Recommended Hem: Original
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Why: Factory edge is part of the design; standard hem destroys the selvedge
Distressed or faded denim
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Recommended Hem: Original
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Why: Fading and wear at the hem is intentional; a clean new edge looks strange
Dark wash or non-distressed denim
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Recommended Hem: Either
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Why: Less character at the hem; standard works fine if a clean finish is preferred
Dress trousers or chinos
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Recommended Hem: Standard
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Why: Cleaner result; generally no factory detail worth preserving
Casual cotton or linen pants
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Recommended Hem: Standard
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Why: Usually no special edge construction
A Few Things Worth Knowing
The original hem technique requires a tailor who is set up for it. This means the right thread weights, the right needle for denim (heavier and sharper than standard), and the experience to match a factory stitch. It is slightly more labor-intensive than a standard hem, which is reflected in the price, but for a pair of jeans you love, it’s the only alteration that preserves exactly what made you buy them in the first place.
One tip: bring the shoes you plan to wear most with that specific pair. Sneakers, loafers, and boots all call for a different length.
At Alts, we do original hems on everything from raw Japanese selvedge to vintage Levi’s to your favorite everyday pair. The goal is always the same: a jean that fits your body and still looks completely, authentically like itself.
